From the NY Times’ 4/14/08 article “Housing Woes in U.S. Spread Around Globe”:
“Such cutbacks are well under way in Ireland, where the taxi drivers complain that their ranks are being swollen by laid-off home builders. The housing collapse has brought an abrupt end to more than a decade of pell-mell growth that earned Ireland the nickname “the Celtic tiger.”” You hear the same thing here. A common refrain among drivers is “Too many cabs”. Business is down in the resorts and casinos here, so you have the same number of drivers competing for fewer fares. In talking with other drivers, I’ve heard that the “extra” boards of other companies are filled with former real-estate agents. More people vying for smaller pieces of the pie…welcome to the new world order. You have taxi drivers and food servers on one end, hedge fund managers and CEOs on the other.
My aunt in Holland recently attended a little family get-together, and heard that a distant relative whom I’ve never met, well, this young woman was working as a landscape architect and was laid off some time ago due to the downturn there. Being an entrepreneurial sort, she started a small travel agency selling package tours to Tibet. Apparently she has been to Tibet and is a fan of the country. But with the recent unrest there, travel has been restricted and she was forced out of business. I’m going to try to get her email. I didn’t know I had any relatives who did interesting things like that! Maybe I could offer some empathy. I hope I get to meet her someday. It’s become apparent to me that I may lose my living connections to Holland within the next several years.
Oh yes, the taxi driving. One thing that has been interesting to me is how you remember some people and other passengers are immediately forgotten. Sometimes just a few brief sentences, combined with the public persona of the person saying them, are enough to create a memorable impression. What follows are some brief quotes along with descriptions of the speakers. I think they are notable for what they say about the current state of our society.
“We lost everything in Katrina” –A tiny sad-eyed young woman who had just refused a ride with the cab in front of me because the driver wouldn’t allow her to smoke. She had just gotten off of her shift housekeeping at Bally’s and was dying for a cigarette. I told her she could smoke in my van. Apparently she moved to Las Vegas from Mississippi after Katrina with her boyfriend. They were sharing one car, so I had to transport her to the Rio, where he worked, so she could pick up their car. She told me a little bit about starting over in Las Vegas, about how they had just a few possessions when they arrived here. Someday historians will refer to the “Katrina diaspora” to describe the after effects of that hurricane. The people of the deep South, especially New Orleans, have a unique way of life, a unique culture. To try to adapt to a different one, despite being in the same country, must have been difficult after having one’s home destroyed and livelihood lost.
“I say FUCK the Spotted Owl!” –a twenty-something white male from Virginia who was here with some college buddies. We got to talking about the price of gas. He was of the opinion that environmental laws were blocking new territories from being opened up to oil drilling. I reminded him that the spotted owl pertained to logging in Pacific Northwest forests. “Well, you know what I mean.” he protested. To him it was just a symbol of marginal concerns impeding progress. He went on to say that he believed high gas prices were due to a government conspiracy with the purpose of controlling people. To do what, he didn’t seem to have an idea. I would have liked to explore the notion with him further, but we had reached our destination. They wanted me to drop them off at Mandalay Bay so they could get a free limo to take them to a strip club.
A group that was in town for the INTEROP computer show/conference got into my cab. The man who sat next to me in the passenger seat came off as kind of an aging hippie/computer guy. He immediately got to talking with me and I could see that he was very well read and had interests that went far beyond computers. He said he thought that the people who really have their finger on the pulse of what Americans want would be the Las Vegas cab drivers. He had a good point. Though the visitors to Las Vegas do not represent an accurate cross-section of the US population, a wide spectrum of people does come through here, with all the conventions, conferences and shows. It isn’t just gambling-related tourism. I’ve encountered people from all walks of life. His memorable quote was “You wonder what will happen to Las Vegas when America doesn’t have so much money.” This seemed like an odd thing to come from a computer person, a person who must have substantial faith in technology to continuously offer us improvements in standards of living. Maybe he’d read too many Cyberpunk novels. Maybe he’d read the dark, dystopian urban futures posited by urban theorist Mike Davis. What could have lead to the notion that he was willing to entertain the possibility that the prosperity that the US has enjoyed for the past half-century or so is but a brief historical anomaly, that future conditions may call for more austere living, with little play money. That’s an interesting perspective, don’t you think? Will the Strip someday resemble the crumbling seaside resort that Asbury Park, NJ has been for many years? Will the lake of The Bellagio turn into a fetid swamp when the power to run the sophisticated pump system becomes too costly? Will all these displays of extravagance, of man’s dominion over nature, of arrogant demonstrations that we can build whatever we WANT in the middle of the desert someday be forced into ruin? Admit it, it is at least a valuable mental exercise. The volume of Lake Mead, the man-made lake behind the Hoover Dam from which Las Vegas draws its water, is way down. The snowfall on the western Rocky Mountains that drain into the Colorado River has been considerably less in recent years. The data used, I understand, to determine what sort of river flows would fill Lake Mead was based on a limited historical period. When further analysis was done, studying the rings of ancient trees along the Colorado, among other methods, it was found that there have been extended periods of drought over the centuries. Flow levels have been much lower than what was shown in the historical data used to calculate the average level that could be expected in Lake Mead. You can read about it here. Gasp! I’m linking to foxnews! There goes my journalism cred. So what if Lake Mead did run dry? Well, they could desalinate seawater and pump it some 280 miles here. But that is costly. Will the funding exist? All the necessities of daily life for Las Vegas are trucked in from afar. There isn’t much that is edible that can be commercially grown here. With oil costs soaring, just keeping the store shelves stocked will cost more. The tourism that is the lifeblood of the city counts on millions being flown in. The cost of air travel is going up as well. With the downturn in the economy, occupancy rates at the major resorts are down. And just how is the city preparing? They did buy water rights from areas many miles to the north, there are watering restrictions, there are incentives for converting lawns to low-water-use desert landscaping. As for the rising price of oil, that doesn’t seem to be on the radar at all. Transport is largely left to the realm of free enterprise. Of course, there are alternate futures that can be imagined. Someone might actually come out with a 100 mpg carburetor and is given the investment capital and government approval to produce thousands of them per day, made to fit all types of cars. Within months they are being installed on cars throughout the world. The bottom falls out of the oil market, the price of gas drops drastically, peak oil is pushed further into the future. Las Vegans embrace higher-density living, cutting down on land devoted to water-intensive landscapes and making mass transit more workable.
OK, I’m boring you. Back to the human drama. Who wants to hear about the swingers?! I picked up this couple at the Rio. They were attractive, stylishly dressed. The girl was a thin brunette in a tight dress with an open back. They looked good together, in a superficial sense, but there was no love in their eyes. They got in and asked me if I knew how to get to the Red Rooster. The Red Rooster is actually a chain of swingers clubs that are in private homes around the valley. Apparently the guy had seen their website and wanted to go to this one that is far out on the east side of town. As we discussed how to get there, my over-active imagination wandered into notions of what goes on at these sex clubs and of this couple engaged in such acts. I pictured doughy, middle-aged white men in bondage gear milling about, hoping someone would show up. I imagined uncomfortable, awkward couplings with marginally willing partners, bad smells, stains on the furniture, faces with ball gags and pained expressions…meanwhile the cost of the long ride made him decide against it. The girl seemed annoyed with the guy for not planning better. They decided to just go back to the Luxor. Oh well… so much for a journey to swingerland. Only one other time did I get a request for a swingers club. It was from The Sapphire gentleman’s club, the one that bills itself as “The World’s Largest”. Two middle-aged men and one woman entered my cab. The woman told me that they wanted to go to the green room. “You mean “The Green Door?” I asked. “Yes, that’s the place!” The Green Door is a swinger’s club that claims to be “world famous” in its ads. It is located in a depressingly ugly strip mall a few blocks east of the Strip. I’ve been told its really nice inside, and I think I’ll take their word for it. The men didn’t seem at all into the idea. They asked me what kind of place it is. I told them it’s a place “…for, um, open-minded people”. I was asked if I would go there, and I told them no, that it’s not “my thing”. So I dropped them off and parked to wait and see if they would actually go through with it. Most of these places will give cab drivers kick-backs for dropping people off. But in a few moments they marched back out. They walked down the row of storefronts to yet another swinger’s club called “Show & Tell”. I approached them and asked if they didn’t like that place. “Oh, she doesn’t know what she’s doing” opined one of the men. They asked if I could take them back, and I told them I couldn’t since there were other cabs waiting. There is sort of a code among drivers that you don’t pick some one up when there are other drivers waiting. But sometimes you can’t prevent it.
Just a few seconds after I drop a couple off at the Palms, a group of men pile into my van, bypassing the taxi stad line, saying that they are in a hurry. It was nearly 9 pm. The story was that there were members of a wedding party from Burlington, NC. As the groom-to-be seated himself in the seat next to me he announced “Hey, you’re white!” “Surprise, surprise.” I responded. “This will be an interesting ride.” I thought to myself. The groom was already quite drunk, and a bigoted loudmouth on top of that. “So what’s goin’ on here man? You ain’t black, you ain’t no A-rab, you ain’t Indian! You’re like us!” he commented. “So you think I’m like you?” I asked. While I really wanted to tell him how I’m not like him…I am so much not like him. But on the other hand, I didn’t want to discourage him. I wanted to see what kind of off-the-wall things he would say next. I wanted to see how far he would take his diatribe. It got better. “You know, regular white guys like us are losing our rights in this country!” “Really? What makes you say that?” I queried. But in his drunken state he was not able to stay on one subject for more than a few moments, as he was also joking with his buddies. He kept looking at my taxicab permit, looking for some kind of evidence to support his theory that I was not a “real” taxi driver. He couldn’t seem to get his head around the fact that a clean-cut, well-spoken white guy without a foreign accent was driving a cab. Maybe he’s never seen one, maybe it flew in the face of his sense of white entitlement. “Why are you doing this? I don’t get it!” he exclaimed while gesturing to the dark street in front of us. I acted as if I didn’t know what he was talking about. “What do you mean? This is a great job.” But he was talking to his buddies again. The purpose of the rushed cab trip was to procure a pair of dress pants for one member of the wedding party. He had somehow forgotten to pack them and was not about to pay $300 for a pair of pants as offered by the store inside the Palms. We had decided to head for a Wal-Mart. Uh-oh, the subject is changing again. “I’m fuckin’ getting’ married tomorrow, Tim!” was his next exclamation. “Congratulations” I said, gritting my teeth. What I would have liked to have said was something along the lines of “The thought of you choosing to marry, and most likely procreate is abhorrent. I find it depressing that you have been given this opportunity. Your progeny will spread the hate which you will instill in them.” But back to the pants. This is about an expedition for pants. I mentioned the Fashion Show mall, which is filled with clothing stores. I guess the idea of getting pants that are a cut above the Wal-mart variety appealed to them. I called the dispatcher on the information channel and asked if they know when the mall closes. 10:00 I was told, so I headed in that direction. By the time we got there, the fare had run up to over $18.00. I let them out near the first door I saw, and they scrambled over to the store. As I was starting to drive away, I saw one of them come out again. I looked in his direction. “Stores closed” he said. The groom was urinating behind some shrubs. For a moment I considered waiting for them, taking them to the next stop in their pants expedition, but then the thought of having these drunken rednecks in my cab again made me decide not to. “Fuck ‘em.” I thought to myself. I’ll never see them, nor would I want to. I wanted to get as far from them as possible. North Carolina, your people have spoken for you. How will this man and his ilk handle difficult economic times? Will they look for a scapegoat when it costs $150 to fill up the pickup? Will it be foreigners, “A-rabs”, Indians? When what was once considered a good standard of living by their parents is no longer available to them, whom will they blame?